Cheonggyesan

South of Umyonsan and west of Gwanaksan lies Cheonggyesan (Clear Stream Mountain 618m).Although not as famous (or busy) as Gwanaksan, it offers a gentler if longer hike.

Beginning near Yangjae, it is a steady climb up forested trails and wooden steps (over 1400 of them) to ridge line at about 580 meters

On the northern slopes is a memorial to 53 members of the 250th special air operations training course who were killed here on June 1st 1981. While trying to land at an airstrip in Geoyeo dong, their C-123 crashed into Cheonggyesan in dense fog killing all on board.

As is the norm for mountains in this are the top is occupied by the military meaning a long laborious detour around the peak.

Near the peak is a large bolder, Manggyeongdae. With the establishment of the Joseon Dynasty (1392 - 910) an advisor to the fallen Goryeo Dynasty(918 ~1392) Jo Yun took refuge here and sulked for a while, unwilling to accept his new rulers (Coupled with the story of the grumpy princes doing a similar thing on Gwanaksan, I'm starting to see a pattern emerging here. I wish some of my grumpy and indignant 3rd graders would take after their ancestors and clear off to a mountain for a few years). Having a clear view over Umyeonsan and across the Han river into Seoul, Jo Yun named this boulder Manggyeongdae.

On the southern side is the famed temple of Cheonggyesa. Established during the Silla Dynasty (57 BCE – 935 CE)and restored in 1284 in is similar to many Joseon era temples with the notable exceptions of it's large reclining Buddha.

(From here)

In order to extend our hike (Our route over Cheonggyesan took only about 3 and a half hours) we passed Seoul Grand Park, Seoul Racecourse and cut over Umyonsan and back to our apartment. In total it took nearly 4 and a half sweaty, sticky hours as humidity was 100% and the temperature was close to 30.

Gwanak Mountain Part 1

Perhaps the most well known mountain in southern Seoul is Gwanak San, so named because of it's resemblance to a nobleman's horsehair hat.

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Standing at just 629 meters it is hardly the highest mountain in the city but it is one of the most iconic and divides Seoul and it's neighbouring province of Gyeonggi.

Occupying over 19,000,000 square meters and with over 48km of trail it offers the thousands of hikers who ascend it every weekend panoramic views across the city and west to Incheon.

Originally believed to have been a volcano, in 1394 the founding fathers of Hanyang (modern day Seoul) were advised to build their capital at the foot of Gwanaksan, facing north, so as to avoid the "force of fire" emanating from the mountain. Ignoring the advice of the sages King Taejo built his palace, Gyeongbok-gung, in what is now downtown Seoul, on the north side of the Han river. Gwanaksan had it's revenge however in 1594 when the palace was razed by the Japanese. The palace was only rebuilt in the late 19th century and having learned a lesson from his ancestors, Regent-Prince Heungseon Daewon-gun ordered the placement of two mythical lions, haetae, in front of the palace, facing south, to protect it from the fires of Gwanak mountain.

(From here)

The mountain is dotted with temples and shrines, the most spectacular being Yeonju-dae.

(From here)

Originally established by one Master Uisang in 667 it has played host to many a dignitary, perhaps the most famous being Princes Yangnyong and Hyoryeong, who on hearing that their father, King Taejong (r. 1400-1418) had chosen their younger brother (and later Korea's most famous king) Sejong as the crown prince, took residence here in what can best be described as an adolescent huff.

Close by is Yeonju-am, a 7th century temple complex believed to have been founded by the same Master Uisang responsible for the smaller shrine mentioned above. Yeonjuam is famed for it's three storied stone pagoda which dates from the 10th century.

(From here)

Umyonsan Part 1

We are very lucky living where we do. Within 20 minutes we have three excellent hills and mountains in easy reach.

One of the many great things about living in such a high population density city like Seoul are the ubiquitous recreational facilities. Wherever you live in the city, you are guaranteed not to be far away from a hill or mountain with a myriad of trails of varying degrees of difficulty. Most come equipped with fresh water springs, hidden badminton courts and most bizarrely. complete outdoor gyms. It was getting too dark to take many photos this evening but I will include some in the next post.


Koreans, on the whole, are a very fit bunch who exercise regularly, perhaps as a necessity owing to the fact that they consume biblical amounts of fatty pork belly and flavored ethanol on a regular basis. On weekends mountains are covered with hikers and mountain bikers, church groups and school groups, all looking for their little piece of paradise. Unfortunately, with a metropolitan population of over 20 million people, that is seldom the case and reaching the peaks of some mountains in the Seoul area can be less challenging than keeping your patience.

The closest mountain to us is Umyonsan, which means Sleeping Cow mountain. I've been reliably informed that this name comes from its elongated shape and not the crazy homeless woman who hangs out around the entrance. At just under 300 meters it isn't the most testing walk but does provide a great relief from screaming kids and smelly classrooms.

Umyeonsan is part of a range that runs across southern Seoul and was originally connected to Gwanaksan until an expressway was cut through connecting Seoul and Gwacheon.


Given its strategic location it is not surprising that the top of the mountain is occupied by a military installation and most of the northern slopes are covered with extensive trenches and machine gun emplacements and most exciting of all; a mine field.

These don't detract from what is a beautiful mountain. Replanted after the war, like most mountains in the South, and not incidentally, in the north, it has a rich mixture of deciduous and evergreen trees. Wildlife is every where and it is unusual not to see with pheasants, squirrels or woodpeckers, even close to the main trails.

In part 2 I'll include photos from the peak and something on Daeseonsa Temple.